Place of Refuge (Pu'uhonua O Hōnaunau National Historical Park)

This is the best shore dive I have done anywhere with the possible exception of Casino Point, Catalina Island (California Diver.) Jan 2007 surf and surge were up, so exit was a challenge. My son and I saw many turtles, a spotted eagle ray, snowflake eel, and all of the usual Hawaiian residents (except Humuhumu…). Let me offer two cautions. 1) under the steps at two step are urchins (caught a spine under an index fingernail in the surge.) 2) If staying in Kailua of Keahaou, the road there and back tops at over 1700 ft., so give yourself some time after diving before returning. Even in the gloom of the passing storm and reduced vis., this place absolutely sparkled. The Big Island guide books prepare divers for a relative scarcity of coral, but this place put an end to that myth. The topography and coral reef structure at Place of Refuge rivals that of what I have experienced in the Caribbean. Probably an easily navigable night dive because all of the reef structure seems to point right back to the entry points. Rated the roads rather lowly because of construction and TRAFFIC!